Eggplant
Eggplant peaks in late summer — August is when Southern California farms produce them in abundance. The flesh is less bitter than in off-season months, and the skin is thinner. What arrives now roasts into something deeply savory with minimal effort.
How to choose it
- Firm with no soft spots — a soft eggplant will be bitter and seedy
- Glossy, taut skin rather than dull or wrinkled
- Lighter weight for its size often means fewer seeds
- The cap and stem should still look fresh, not dry
Buy this much: 1 large eggplant or 2 small ones for the week.
Eggplant is inexpensive in August when supply peaks. Italian eggplant (the long, narrow variety) and Japanese eggplant roast particularly well.
During the week
- Roasted in chunks and added to a rice bowl
- Pan-fried thick slices alongside chicken or fish
- Folded into pasta with cherry tomatoes and basil
On a weekend
Charred whole over flame or under the broiler, flesh scooped out and mixed with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. Serve with bread.
One thing worth learning
You don't need to salt modern eggplant. The salting-and-draining method was developed for older, bitter varieties. Current cultivars have had the bitterness bred out. What actually matters is heat — a crowded pan steams and makes it soggy. Give the pieces room, use a hot pan, and leave them alone until they release and color.