Jalapeños
Jalapeños are peak summer, and in August the heat and color variation is at its widest. Green jalapeños are grassier; red jalapeños (fully ripened) are fruitier and a little hotter. The house flavor this month uses them alongside peppers — but they earn their place in almost every savory dish on the table.
How to choose it
- Firm and glossy, no soft spots
- Green is grassy and mild-to-medium; red is fruity and a bit hotter
- Streaks of tan or brown on the skin (corking) indicate more heat — a sign of stress on the plant, which concentrates the capsaicin
- Smaller jalapeños tend to be hotter than larger ones
Buy this much: 3–4 jalapeños. Two go into the house flavor; the rest carry the week.
Jalapeños are inexpensive year-round but at their best now. Look for them at Mexican grocery stores or the farmers market for the freshest selection.
During the week
- Shaved thin over halibut or drumsticks
- Charred into the pepper sauce
- A few rings in the drink
- Over fig toast, if you're curious
On a weekend
Charred alongside the peppers for the sauce.
One thing worth learning
Heat level in jalapeños varies seed to seed and plant to plant — you can't know from appearance alone. Taste a small piece before adding them to a dish. The seeds and membranes hold most of the heat; removing them makes the pepper significantly milder while keeping the flavor.