November · San Diego
Brussels sprouts
Brussels sprouts are a cool-season crop, and they arrive in November sweeter than they'll be at any other time; a little cold makes them convert starch to sugar. Crisped hard, their outer leaves go brown and nutty and the centers turn tender.
How to choose it
- Small, tight, bright green heads, an inch or so across
- Heavy for their size
- No yellow outer leaves or black spots
- Similar sizes, so they cook evenly
Buy this much: 1 lb for the salmon and lentils.
Sold loose by the pound or in bags. Loose lets you pick small, even ones.
During the week
- Crisped in the air fryer and folded into warm lentils under salmon
- Leftovers tossed with fish sauce and chile, beside rice
On a weekend
Halved and crisped, under two fried eggs.
One thing worth learning
Overcooked Brussels sprouts smell like cabbage because they are cabbage. Cooked hot and fast, cut side down or in moving hot air, they brown before the sulfur builds up.