November · San Diego
Leeks
Leeks come into their own as the weather cools. Cooked slowly, they melt into something soft and sweet that turns a braise or a soup into a cool-weather dish.
How to choose it
- Straight, firm white and light-green parts
- Fresh, dark tops without yellowing
- Medium leeks are more tender than very thick ones
Buy this much: 4 for the suggested week: two for the braise, two for the minestrone.
Sold singly or in bunches of two or three.
During the week
- Softened in sausage fat to start the minestrone
- Left over from the braise, on toast with an egg
On a weekend
Softened with fennel under the braised chicken thighs.
One thing worth learning
Leeks hold grit between their layers. Slice them first, then swish the slices in a bowl of cold water and lift them out with your hands; the sand sinks to the bottom.