October · San Diego
Arugula
Arugula is a cool-weather green. In summer heat it bolts and turns harsh; planted in September, it's ready in October with a gentler, peppery bite. It's the first green in months that tastes like it wanted to grow.
How to choose it
- Small leaves are milder than big, deeply lobed ones
- Perky leaves with no yellowing
- No wet or slimy leaves at the bottom of the bag or bunch
- Bunches usually taste more of themselves than washed clamshells
Buy this much: 1 bunch, or one big bag. It doesn't keep like the rest of the basket — use it first.
Bunches are often cheaper per ounce than clamshells.
During the week
- In rockfish tacos in place of lettuce
- Dressed with lemon on ajvar toast
- Under roast pork and its relish
- Tossed with pomegranate and dates beside the fish in parchment
On a weekend
The base of the October salad: arugula, pomegranate, torn dates, and feta, dressed at the last second.
One thing worth learning
Dress greens at the last possible moment. Salt pulls water out of leaves, and oil weighs them down, so a salad dressed ten minutes early is a wilted salad. Put everything in the bowl, carry it to the table, and toss it there.